Take back the keys!

Damn that sucks. I hope you get it back together soon.

Cory,

Did you heat cycle and re-torque the studs? I know I ran into the same problem on my DSM (popped the HG) until I did that. It's quite common on ARP's.

I tq'd it, ran it up to temp. Re tq'd when hot. Let it cool 100%, re-tq'd and repeated.

Each time you could tighten them less and less. Haven't an issue since.

Oh, btw what was it making before it popped? Just curious.

RSbeast wrote:Cory,

Did you heat cycle and re-torque the studs? I know I ran into the same problem on my DSM (popped the HG) until I did that. It's quite common on ARP's.

I tq'd it, ran it up to temp. Re tq'd when hot. Let it cool 100%, re-tq'd and repeated.

Each time you could tighten them less and less. Haven't an issue since.

Yes sir Tom I did. I called ARP and retorqued them to specs on Friday. Their specs state, on a cool motor (not hot due to aluminum head) Loosen just ONE at a time in the proper order in which you torque them normally. So you loosen one (just basically enough to break the stud) Then retorque to their 80 ftlbs spec for my studs with moly lube, then move on to the next stud in the proper torque order.(center out in both directions). I did that when the motor had about 400 miles on it.

After re-torquing I took her out checked things over and all seemed to be fine after a 30 minute or so drive. With boosting and normal driving. Came home the engine hadn't spit out any extra coolant into the overflow, and all looked well.

I will most likely tear into her Wednesday. Hopefully to just discover ONLY a bad sealing headgasket...

We made 380whp @6500 (mustang dyno) on 13 psi (low boost baselines). With timing taken out, engine was still making power we will be reving to 8000 with timing added back in.

Hrm, sounds like it must have been a mating surface issue then. Kudo's for going by the book. I wish I looked into it further the first time I used ARP's. However I got them with the engine with no instructions.....so it was trial by fire heh.

Great #'s so far! That thing should scream!

My mustang will barely run with all these changes I made. I need a tune sooooooooo bad

Thanks Tom, that's what I was hoping for... more waiting for me. ugh.

As for yours barely running I know how that goes, just let it sit until its ready to be tuned it will be worth it.

Rb25Cory wrote:Thanks Tom, that's what I was hoping for... more waiting for me. ugh.

As for yours barely running I know how that goes, just let it sit until its ready to be tuned it will be worth it.

Cory,

I didn't have time to read the whole thread..

When the car started spitting coolant did you guys take a few degrees out at peak torque? Usually pk tq is when gaskets stop being nice.

Although, at your power level and boost level, you'd think gaskets would hold.

What is your radiator cap as far as psi rating?

Did you re-use these ARP studs or are they fresh? ARP's are basically one or two time only studs regardless of what they tell you, they DO stretch (caliper test to verify). That tq rating sounds low as well, I know ARP recommends 85ft/lbs on DSM, but with a metal headgasket 85ft/lbs and 400whp it will never seal. I think when I was running ARP's I was putting 105ft/lbs into them with moly. I kept popping gaskets as well, so that's when I went with the $400 A1 studs, and some o-rings in the head. Bitch spit rods out before the gasket ever moved.

I'm not much of anything but 4g63, but if you want to call me later, I can go over a bunch of headgasket stuff with you.

Thanks for the input Tony. I can give you a call tomorrow, im not sure what time you wake up but I'll be driving home from akron around 8 am.

As for the torque on the ARP's I did see that some supra guys run at least 90 ftlbs on theirs sometimes more. I think they use 12mm studs not 11mm studs which are what the rb25 uses. I went with what the ARP tech told me assuring he would know what was up. The cap is a 15 psi cap. The studs were on their second use. This time around we are getting new studs.

From what I saw on SkylinesAustralia.com (big skyline forum) they dont go really anymore than 80 ft lbs. I will sure to check the yield torque on the 11 mm studs via ARP or my own hand calcs once I know the material. From what I see however with a organic OEM HG 80 ft lbs should be plenty. A great deal of high HP skylines are running stock gaskets with studs or that combo with an O-ringing with that standard torque spec.

I might be getting some headwork performed before I bolt her back down again.. I shall see. I'll be doing work on taking her apart wednesday.

Rb25Cory wrote:Thanks for the input Tony. I can give you a call tomorrow, im not sure what time you wake up but I'll be driving home from akron around 8 am.

As for the torque on the ARP's I did see that some supra guys run at least 90 ftlbs on theirs sometimes more. I think they use 12mm studs not 11mm studs which are what the rb25 uses. I went with what the ARP tech told me assuring he would know what was up. The cap is a 15 psi cap. The studs were on their second use. This time around we are getting new studs.

From what I saw on SkylinesAustralia.com (big skyline forum) they dont go really anymore than 80 ft lbs. I will sure to check the yield torque on the 11 mm studs via ARP or my own hand calcs once I know the material. From what I see however with a organic OEM HG 80 ft lbs should be plenty. A great deal of high HP skylines are running stock gaskets with studs or that combo with an O-ringing with that standard torque spec.

I might be getting some headwork performed before I bolt her back down again.. I shall see. I'll be doing work on taking her apart wednesday.

I will be driving from Ytown to Cleveland tmw after 8am for an interview @ 10, that should work fine.

Measure the new ARP's with a nice set of calipers, and then measure the olds ones to see if they stretched.

7bolt DSM's use 11mm studs, 6bolt DSM's use 12mm studs. I would stil crank those bitches down if I was you.

DSMu4ia wrote:I will be driving from Ytown to Cleveland tmw after 8am for an interview @ 10, that should work fine.

Measure the new ARP's with a nice set of calipers, and then measure the olds ones to see if they stretched.

7bolt DSM's use 11mm studs, 6bolt DSM's use 12mm studs. I would stil crank those bitches down if I was you.

Already planned on that one! (measureing)

I'll give you a call after 8 on my way home.

Heres a run of a pull to 6500. I guess Andrew says the camera stopped filming right before the headgasket popped pull. Hes trying to figure out what the deal is, so heres this for now.

http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/Shockster0429/?action=view&current=312d3767.pbr

Rb25Cory wrote:Heres a run of a pull to 6500. I guess Andrew says the camera stopped filming right before the headgasket popped pull. Hes trying to figure out what the deal is, so heres this for now.

http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/Shockster0429/?action=view&current=312d3767.pbr

it sounds pretty good, doesn't seem to be spittin at all.

what are u planning to twist it up to?

i can see what you were talkin about them possibly overloading it, i thought the same thing while i was watching it.. seemed to be reving kinda slow.

Tony is right about the arp studs, mine are torqued far less than that and they even stretched after two uses.

Lemmie know if u end up tearing into her weds, i'll stop by after work

Running925 wrote:
it sounds pretty good, doesn't seem to be spittin at all.

what are u planning to twist it up to?

8000

Yeah we really had no other issues besides the headgasket, wasn't breaking up, we had more issues getting the dyno to register a tach signal than we had with the car.

Brian, I'll be working on her during the day I have class at night.

What Brian was saying about over loading the car, the dyno was really pushing on her hard resisting rolling, something with the drag coef and weight entry I think was off causing this.

What kind of dyno is that?

What gear were you dynoing?

DSMu4ia wrote:What kind of dyno is that?

What gear were you dynoing?

Mustang Dyno, 4th gear which is 1 to 1, 4.08 rear end.

You've been quiet here lately. Any progress on getting it back together?

Markdawg20 wrote:You've been quiet here lately. Any progress on getting it back together?

Wont happen from quite some time, aside from a few circuit type racing events (in the rex) I'm taking a long break from cars. The mystical white unicorn will most likely not be seen the rest of this year.

Rb25Cory wrote:

Markdawg20 wrote:You've been quiet here lately. Any progress on getting it back together?

Wont happen from quite some time, aside from a few circuit type racing events (in the rex) I'm taking a long break from cars. The mystical white unicorn will most likely not be seen the rest of this year.

thats shitty

his luck with that damn car is shitty.

I give u credit cory, i would have set it on fire or sold it by now.

g3ar5hift3r wrote:his luck with that damn car is shitty.

I give u credit cory, i would have set it on fire or sold it by now.

ohh i understand the hell that it brings.. i blew 3 engines & 2 turbos back in like 05, it wasn't fun at all. I was beyond pissed at that car, but the problem was that I was addicted to power & just didn't know enough to be doing what i was doing.

i'm just thinkin that it's shitty coz was lookin forward to running his car sometime this summer.

Running925 wrote:

g3ar5hift3r wrote:his luck with that damn car is shitty.

I give u credit cory, i would have set it on fire or sold it by now.

ohh i understand the hell that it brings.. i blew 3 engines & 2 turbos back in like 05, it wasn't fun at all. I was beyond pissed at that car, but the problem was that I was addicted to power & just didn't know enough to be doing what i was doing.

i'm just thinkin that it's shitty coz was lookin forward to running his car sometime this summer.

Very I suppose you can say maybe "not knowing" enough in my situation, however I discovered issues with my EMS and engine that most if not all of my community did not know. However these discovered issues came a bit too late until after the damage was done.

Bummer big time, it makes me sick to be honest. I have a few ideas for the car, I'm very unsure on which route to go. Being laid off doesn't help my matters either, I'll be job hunting once again pretty hard once school is out. Cant build cars w/o money, and I can never bring myself to spending money I do not have on it.

u should get a rb30 block and run rb25 head

njrupp wrote:u should get a rb30 block and run rb25 head

I'd scrap the 25 head, its junk anyways. If I went that baller it would be a 26 head. Yes this idea has crossed my mind. Anything can be done with some time and a good bit of money. The latter part I don't have currently for such builds.

I could always sell my shit and go KA-T?!

Or find a cheap sr20. Just to get the damn thing running!

Nick Serra wrote:Or find a cheap sr20. Just to get the damn thing running!

Naw, I don't think I could stick a 4 cylinder in it. 4g63 is about the only one I'd consider.

Rb25Cory wrote:

Nick Serra wrote:Or find a cheap sr20. Just to get the damn thing running!

Naw, I don't think I could stick a 4 cylinder in it. 4g63 is about the only one I'd consider.

Ha, that would be nuts.

Rb25Cory wrote:

njrupp wrote:u should get a rb30 block and run rb25 head

I could always sell my shit and go KA-T?!

You should. Neglected KA's can be found for next to nothing. I'm sure you've got lots of extra turbo parts laying arounds too...
Stock block can reliably handle 350whp with the recored being 532whp at this time...go for it holmes!

Markdawg20 wrote:
You should. Neglected KA's can be found for next to nothing. I'm sure you've got lots of extra turbo parts laying arounds too...
Stock block can reliably handle 350whp with the recored being 532whp at this time...go for it holmes!

I understand what your saying, the cheap money part is tempting however I just really don't care for the engine. I'm not a big four cylinder fan never really cared for the noise they make unless its reving to the moon. That is why I'd consider a 4g63 6 bolt, since its a very proven engine and also very cheap (in comparison to RB junk). However I'm not exactly sure which 5mt I'd be running...

Oh, ok.