Take back the keys!

Anyone else here running the Aeromotive fuel pressure reg? I've got one on, only running one feed to it, so the other side is capped off. Set the bitch at 55 psi vac off(what I was tuned at), ok great works. Shut the car off start it up its a 50 psi? wtf. Let it sit over night and start it up int he morning its at 70 psi?!! The things tightened down with the allen wrench and the stop nut... it doesn't make a any sense.......... I drive it down the road for work, I check it its now 60...

I'm calling them today to see whats up. Shits fucking with my a/f's like no other.

What model? I used to run a modified version of the SX series with no issues for years.

Seems odd.

RSbeast wrote:What model? I used to run a modified version of the SX series with no issues for years.

Seems odd.

yeah I think I figured it out, I'm running a liquid filled summit gauge. I guess they have different readings when hot and cold... so they are inaccurate.

I'm gonna run to summit today and pick up a Aeromotive FP gauge which isn't liquid filled and supposed to be 100% accurate... we shall see if that solves anything.

What gauge are you running?

I run the middle of the road -6 AN Aeromotive FPR. No problems.

I also run a stupid $$$ Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge. It's dead accurate.

If your fuel pressure is in fact moving around, you will be able to see the variances on your wideband.

I personally would put the money on the gauge, but I have heard of diaphram problems in some FPR's.

Could always try some cheapass Sunpro gauge from the parts store, might also try taking the FPR apart and cleaning it, might be some gunk in there.

DSMu4ia wrote:I run the middle of the road -6 AN Aeromotive FPR. No problems.

I also run a stupid $$$ Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge. It's dead accurate.

If your fuel pressure is in fact moving around, you will be able to see the variances on your wideband.

I personally would put the money on the gauge, but I have heard of diaphram problems in some FPR's.

Could always try some cheapass Sunpro gauge from the parts store, might also try taking the FPR apart and cleaning it, might be some gunk in there.

I talked to the guy today at AERO, he suggested start with the gauge, he wanted me to remove the fluid from my summit gauge.. but I'm just going to run to summit and get their AERO gauge which is supposed to be spot on.(its not fluid filled)

I'll have to watch my a/f's more while cruising normal, it almost seems like they are fluctuation..... but then again I keep adjusting my fucking FPR because the value keeps changing.... So I'm driving my car to summit the a/fs should stay the same the whole way if it was the gauge...

Hes doubting his FPR, but he says it might be possible and they could check it out for me, its only a week old lol.

If I cant get this sorted out today, I most likely wont be going to finish tuning tomorrow.... I shall see in a few hours whats up.

Tony, are you running 3/8's line for your 044 with 6 an fittings as well? I'm also using my stock 5/16's return...

Cory,

My fuel setup goes like this..

OEM Modified fuel sending unit housing a Walbro 255hp with the regulator punched out (15-20% more flow), with a -8 AN bulkhead for feed, and a -6 bulkhead for return.

Walbro 255 feeds the Bosch 044 via -8 AN, then the Bosch goes to the fuel filter via -8 (fancy shiny Aeromotive that required some -10 to -8 reducers which are $$), then from the filter to the fuel rail via -8.

OEM fuel rail bored true (they like to warp a bit) and -8 bung welded to the feed side, and -6 bung welded to return side.

Regulator is off the fuel rail via a -6, and I have -6 AN all the way back as the return.

Pic (I designed the brackets and had a buddy CNC them up for me)

Also Cory,

Not sure how your maps are setup, and how the Microtech manages "closed loop" operation, or if it has any 02 feedback built in. Quick call to your tuner should help you figure it out.

But alot of standalone's have "02 feedback" which means under a certain load/rpm/etc they will maintain a closed loop operation and adjust A/F ratios to suit.

For example, my AEM is setup for 12% or 15% 02 feedback correction during cruise conditions (under 4k rpm, no positive boost, etc). So if it's 12% leaner than the target (14.7:1 or so) it can add fuel, or vise versa if it's 12% richer. 15% @ 55psi is around 9psi, so you might see not air fuels vary that much.

Food for thought.

Thanks Tony, I figured it out.

I got both a summit gauge hooked up now and now I have a AERO gauge on my AERO unit. Fucking summit is off 15 psi!! fluid filled gauge FTL....

I did however melt my intake filter off my compressor housing.. so I made something up for that.

The car survived the 80 mile journey to Summit and back. My EX gas temps are through the roof, I need to finish this tune bad, and add more timing back in. My laptops power supply is deep so I can't do it myself.

She was getting like 15mpg as well cruising..(12.5-13.0a/fs.....). tune needs to be finished needless to say lol.

Rb25Cory wrote:Thanks Tony, I figured it out.

I got both a summit gauge hooked up now and now I have a AERO gauge on my AERO unit. Fucking summit is off 15 psi!! fluid filled gauge FTL....

I did however melt my intake filter off my compressor housing.. so I made something up for that.

The car survived the 80 mile journey to Summit and back. My EX gas temps are through the roof, I need to finish this tune bad, and add more timing back in. My laptops power supply is deep so I can't do it myself.

She was getting like 15mpg as well cruising..(12.5-13.0a/fs.....). tune needs to be finished needless to say lol.

I have some 4" aluminum tubing here you can have if you need to make a little make shift intake. It's even pre-polished for da bling. I have some coupler material too.

My HF Chop Saw blew up, but I have a good hack saw to cut it with.

Air filters don't last on compressor housings. The heat makes them soft and the boost/suction breaks them down real fast.

The cars that you see them on must not get driven very much or very far.

DSMu4ia wrote:
I have some 4" aluminum tubing here you can have if you need to make a little make shift intake. It's even pre-polished for da bling. I have some coupler material too.

My HF Chop Saw blew up, but I have a good hack saw to cut it with.

Air filters don't last on compressor housings. The heat makes them soft and the boost/suction breaks them down real fast.

The cars that you see them on must not get driven very much or very far.

Just got done doing EXACTLY what you are talking about, now we have Vibrant 3 ply on the hotside, 45 degree elbow 4", to the filter about 1 foot away from the housing... we are hopefully straight.