Take back the keys!

well then this thread is useless cept for the first page. so i suggest you come back and post something useful other than arguing. i mean it is under the tech section and the last few pages are just arguments.

6spdscreaminchickin wrote:

What year is your car again, '96? Why does it have the V6 Firebird/Formula hatch? The only time a T/A used this hatch was '93-'94, whereas the tall-deck spoiler was still optional..

Oh, and when GM increased the horsepower on the LT1's by 10 from 275 to 285 in '96, it was only a change to a less restrictive exhaust system from the older LT1 exhaust. In your case, comparing your car to Shawns (fbirdformula) is totally irrelavent, since you both have similar aftermarket exhaust system set ups. With everything you have done/planned (that you've listed) for your car this season, I wouldn't expect anything faster than a 13.8 at Quaker.

You should've spent the extra money for ceramic coated like Shawn, myself and everyone else I know that has a car with headers have. For more reasons than 1.. But it's your car, your wallet and your reputation. Whatever.

to be honest rick i dont know. yeah it is a 96. it may have been crashed or vandilized...i dono. i didnt know why the 96 and up had 10 more just knew that it did so thanx now i know it was exhaust. but yeah the main reason i got the painted hearders is my wallet. it has the t/a doors and front end so the hatch is a mystery to me. dave jones asked me that too. lol one of the first things he said.

oh and just for an update on the install. i took a day (1.5 hrs) to put in the short throw shifter. other then that. got the air intake off and the throttle body..... other misc. shit...... should have the intake manifold and the head off tomorow.

Looks like its coming along....I guess. Be careful so you don't have plug wires laying on your headers as they're already a whore and half to route on an LT1.

My $.02 on the thread is:

1. As EVIL WS6 stated, the main HP changes were seen by going to a dual catalytic conveter, which is now irrelevant.
2. While the ceramic is nice, and I wouldn't rock painted headers, nothing else makes them 'bad' other than the benifits of ceramic coating that he won't recieve. FWIW mine are chrome.
3. The shifter on the B&M box, is a pro-ripper. All the standard rippers look similar to what you have, its just what B&M has on the box.
4. Brian I hope to god you use an aftermarket shifter because any Ford one that comes on the cars/trans (including the WC t-5 my brother bought new for his fox) uses the same POS with no positive stops. Without them you are just begging for issues. I liked the B&M in my brothers LS1, it definately tightened things up, and had positive stops, although they are known to have a stiff feel. Powersifting without them is retarded. For road racing I could see going without as you don't slam gears.
5. You will be more than likely right at 300hp, esp with no tune. You have to compensate for the LTs, as bolting them on a stock car with no other changes is going to hurt your bottom end hard.
6. You'll be hard pressed to kill a 10bolt on factory 16s without good tires, they can take alot if you treat them right
7. More than likely someone with a formula wanted a wing and swapped hatches. All t/a's were leather as yours is, along with the t/a steering wheel and all the trimmings...people are just nit picking.
8. Synchros (in laymans terms) help match the speed of the gears inside the trans and line them up so you can change gear withouth that 'crunch' noise.
9. Get some good stud extractors if theyre snapped off in the head and a right angle drill, it'll be a huge whore, but it will work. Do it from the bottom side btw.

And lastly, have some freaking pride in your car. The worst fucking thing ever is spraypainting everything flat black and doing hokey ass work. Not only will it look nice, but it won't be a greasy pile of fuck when you wrench on it, and when you go to sell it, it shows the car was taken care of and greatly helps moving the vehicle....leave the ghetto shit to the dragstrip guys in the thrown together malibus and clapped foxes.

+1 for at least doing the LT's by yourself

You have to compensate for the LTs, as bolting them on a stock car with no other changes is going to hurt your bottom end hard.

what? like what do i have to do? i have never heard that.

everything else is right on though

i'll have more pics tomorow.

Well, by decreasing more backpressure then your engine needs to, you decrease tq. Most 'stock' cars will have a better tq curve and thus ET faster with a set of shorties because of it. Your fuel mapping is also tuned around factory exhaust flow and temps. Get a good intake, skip the tb unless you want to do the coolant bypass from what I've gathered; and get an actual tune (non mail order or a chip). Your longtubes will shine with a cam and headwork, but unless the car is seriously corked, they can be overkill. It will run hard up top though.

Hutter racing tunes f-bodies around here, they are in Chardon.

oh yeah yeah i know. i thought you ment the bottom end of my engine. my bad.

yeah i'm going to get heads/cam. but not untill after i get my turbo so i can get the right ones for my app. cause i dont know how many lbs. of boost i'm gono go yet.

RSbeast wrote:Well, by decreasing more backpressure then your engine needs to, you decrease tq. Most 'stock' cars will have a better tq curve and thus ET faster with a set of shorties because of it. Your fuel mapping is also tuned around factory exhaust flow and temps. Get a good intake, skip the tb unless you want to do the coolant bypass from what I've gathered; and get an actual tune (non mail order or a chip). Your longtubes will shine with a cam and headwork, but unless the car is seriously corked, they can be overkill. It will run hard up top though.

Hutter racing tunes f-bodies around here, they are in Chardon.

funny i used to talk w/ my master technician up at spitzers whose been a master tech for years n years... i asked him about backpressure and he said get rid of it... said to look at it as more work your motor have to do to make u go, he didnt wanna get into the technical aspect of it

Losing back pressure equates to losing bottom end and gaining top end. The way I see it, after first gear there is no more need for bottom end.

6spdscreaminchickin wrote:oh yeah yeah i know. i thought you ment the bottom end of my engine. my bad.

yeah i'm going to get heads/cam. but not untill after i get my turbo so i can get the right ones for my app. cause i dont know how many lbs. of boost i'm gono go yet.

You're going to get the heads and cam AFTER you get a turbo? You're going to have to do the bottom end first... Might as well build the whole motor at the same time..Oh, and the 10 bolt won't take it, so you better get a 12 bolt or a 9 inch while you're at it.. Better get subframe connectors too because t-top'd unibody cars don't like a lot of torque without any kind of reinforcement.

6spdscreaminchickin wrote:oh yeah yeah i know. i thought you ment the bottom end of my engine. my bad.

yeah i'm going to get heads/cam. but not untill after i get my turbo so i can get the right ones for my app. cause i dont know how many lbs. of boost i'm gono go yet.

come on here n steal my ideas....

6spdscreaminchickin wrote:oh yeah yeah i know. i thought you ment the bottom end of my engine. my bad.

yeah i'm going to get heads/cam. but not untill after i get my turbo so i can get the right ones for my app. cause i dont know how many lbs. of boost i'm gono go yet.

LMAO! how did I read over this post. From reading your posts... keep dreaming man... keeppp dreaming.

not only was it my...expensive ass idea... but doood... i got a ton of research to do... and your ages behind me lol

You're going to get the heads and cam AFTER you get a turbo? You're going to have to do the bottom end first... Might as well build the whole motor at the same time..Oh, and the 10 bolt won't take it, so you better get a 12 bolt or a 9 inch while you're at it.. Better get subframe connectors too because t-top'd unibody cars don't like a lot of torque without any kind of reinforcement.

well i'm getting the sts turbo first because i want to see how happy i am with the power it makes without building the motor......on low boost. if i'm not happy with it i'm gono go get heads/cam that will go good with the turbo and up the boost. but yeah im getting sub frame connectors before i get the turbo. and im gono go with the moser 9 inch with 3.73s. this is all not for a while. but i have heard that the 12 bolt is too noisy for a street car.dont know if its true but i'm not going to take the chance. not like i could hear it over my exhaust but still.

get some dynomat... and put it in your car... u won't hear the exhaust, or "rear end noise"

LOL at this thread...

fbirdformula wrote:get some dynomat... and put it in your car... u won't hear the exhaust, or "rear end noise"

Did that still loud as fuck in the cabin

BOOST3DWRX wrote:

fbirdformula wrote:get some dynomat... and put it in your car... u won't hear the exhaust, or "rear end noise"

Did that still loud as fuck in the cabin

drink much?

fbirdformula wrote:

BOOST3DWRX wrote:

fbirdformula wrote:get some dynomat... and put it in your car... u won't hear the exhaust, or "rear end noise"

Did that still loud as fuck in the cabin

drink much?

Yes am now

i like hearing the exhaust

lol record a cd w/ the sound of your car on it... pop it in the radio and there u go...

lol

tom, i did a t-56 swap. t5s are junk

and lol @ the last page of this thread indeed.

brett i hope you have some bank this thread has became a joke lol

just some new pics of my car adn how much of a bitch this header install is becoming. i'll have more as it progresses.











oh and jake your like a parot. you just agree or repeat whatever anyone else says. at least i have the balls to disagree.

6spdscreaminchickin wrote:
well i'm getting the sts turbo first because i want to see how happy i am with the power it makes without building the motor...

Don't bother, they're junk. Just build the motor and get a real turbo setup. Do it right the first time or don't even bother..

why are u having such problems w/ this install....take the damn alternator off.. unbolt the 2 motor mounts.... jack the motor up by the harmonic balancer.... tilt the fucking motor left or right...problem solved...

Don't bother, they're junk. Just build the motor and get a real turbo setup. Do it right the first time or don't even bother..

why do you say their junk? just wondering.

why are u having such problems w/ this install....take the damn alternator off.. unbolt the 2 motor mounts.... jack the motor up by the harmonic balancer.... tilt the fucking motor left or right...problem solved...

too many lines to unhook. fuel lines i really dont want to mess with. i'm just gono pull the head. i'm so close now anyway.